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+--| Qatar |------------------------------------------------------------------+
|                                                                             |
| I have just returned from Doha, Qatar where an UNCTAD meeting is being      |
| held.  I'll be writing about the meeting itself for the Consumers           |
| International blog, but here are some jottings about the country and its    |
| culture.                                                                    |
|                                                                             |
| Qatar is considered a moderate Islamic country, but unlike Malaysia, no     |
| alcohol is allowed outside of tourist hotels; juice stalls replace bars     |
| here (crime is also low, perhaps not coincidentally).  Women need not       |
| cover their faces, but many do; arguably a tradition less about             |
| subjugating women, as shielding them from unwanted advances.  For the same  |
| reason, some restaurants here offer "family areas" barred to single men,    |
| and the local mall similarly has a "family day".                            |
|                                                                             |
| Qatar is also the richest country in the world.  This must be interesting   |
| news to the thousands (millions?) of immigrant workers predominantly from   |
| South Asia and the Philippines who continue to occupy crumbling areas of    |
| the old city, near my hotel.  The dust of the desert hangs in the air       |
| here, and much of it seems to have settled in these alleys, where old       |
| houses, shop lots and mosques provide a transient reminder of Qatar as a    |
| developing country.                                                         |
|                                                                             |
| Already entire neighbourhoods in the old city centre have been razed and    |
| fenced off for massive new developments.  One of these already completed    |
| is the renovation of Souq Waqif, the city's oldest and largest market       |
| area.  Who knows how much (if any) of its faux colonial-era architecture    |
| is original, but there is no questioning the authenticity of the vendors    |
| who still sell interesting Arabian spices, sweets, animals and perfumes     |
| alongside the typical tourist-oriented fare.                                |
|                                                                             |
| Nearby is the Islamic Cultural Centre with exhibits about Islam, situated   |
| in a landmark minaret-style building, and further along the Museum of       |
| Islamic Art, in an equally striking modernist building by the architect of  |
| the Louvre's pyramid.  The museum sits at one end of a bayside promenade    |
| called the Corniche, at the other end of which is the newer area of Doha,   |
| crammed with improbably-shaped skyscrapers.                                 |
|                                                                             |
| Further away still is an even newer area where elite water-fronting         |
| neighbourhoods have been reclaimed from the bay, the landforms sculpted     |
| into geometric shapes. The UNCTAD dinner was held at one of these, the      |
| Pearl. Here we also had a taste of local culture and music, with a tent     |
| showcasing traditional practices such as wood carving, cooking of           |
| flatbreads, and falconry. Not to mention the local cuisine, which included  |
| a specialty dessert um ali; a moist, nutty concoction that reminded me of   |
| bircher muesli.                                                             |
|                                                                             |
| For breakfast I would stick to simpler fare: typically masala dosa (a       |
| savoury pancake stuffed with cooked vegetables and served with hot dipping  |
| sauce) and a cup of (sweet and white, by default) tea for 4 riyals (little  |
| over a dollar), a saving of 73 riyals on the hotel breakfast. The           |
| cafeterias from which such meals were sold were similar to the Indian       |
| Muslim ("mamak") restaurants in Malaysia that sell such inexpensive food    |
| (though we call dosa "tosai").                                              |
|                                                                             |
| I also went to two different chain restaurants during my time here - not    |
| the American kind, although they do have some that even Malaysia lacks      |
| (such as Applebees and Dairy Queen) - but probably the local equivalents    |
| of those; one specialised in meals with kebabs and rice, and the other, a   |
| great variety of flatbread wraps, sliced into bite-sized pieces.            |
|                                                                             |
+----------------------| posted 392 days ago via news | reply (1 comments) |--+
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